Thursday, February 27, 2014

Pictures from Barthelona

I found Quinoa AND Veggies

Anchovies and wasabi and oranges and yumminess

Tuna Tartare

The most perfect egg. Whipped egg white on top of a perfectly underdone yolk

Some fish in some green veggies. Not the best but pretty.

Ever eaten sea cucumber? Neither have I.

Not a clue what this is because there was a hell of a lot of food but it was interesting looking.

CHEESE CHEESE CHEESE.

La Sagrada Familia

La Sagrada Familia parte dos




My favorite park.


I ate kosher shnitzel! And it was weird.

Ze Opera House

To Dallas we never go again...

            At this point, I think it’s safe to say I’m fairly well travelled. I’ve been to almost 40 of the 50 states, 4 continents, and a collection of different countries, 3 of which I basically lived in (not including the US). Even with all the cultural exposure and shocks, never have I felt as confused or foreign as I did in my most recent destination: Dallas, Texas.
            The situation would have been weird no matter where I was. I was going to planet Dallas to chaperone 70 teenagers from 17 different countries as they entered a convention of 2,000 American teenagers who, despite the best of intentions, are not exactly normal. And thus we have BBYO International Convention.
            Luckily, since on my way to Dallas I had time to take the quickest of pit stops at home. I had just enough time to get utterly pampered by my incredible family, give my stamp of approval on my sister’s wedding dress, take my favorite exercise classes, “watch” the Super Bowl, be in 3 states (long story), and run to Costco to stock up on the essentials: Quinoa, Wasabi Peas, and Protein Bars. When I first arrived in my homeland I was so excited and so beyond exhausted from not sleeping on a 10 hour plane ride and being delayed in the Copenhagen airport (which, if I’m going to be stranded anywhere, I choose Copenhagen), that I couldn’t answer the typical security questions and was almost detained. When asked what I do in Latvia I got so overwhelmed at the thought of explaining all that my job has become that I decided to forego the usual monologue in favor of the simpler and quicker, “I don’t know.” I’m not sure if my horrible answers or my antsy dancing in place tipped the guard off but he was kind enough to ask, “Are you in a rush or something?” I hurriedly explained that I missed my family after 5 months of separation AND was about to embark on a 5 hour drive (time for the first state!) so he very kindly said, “First, I think it’s cool that we have the same birthday. Second, if you ever answer questions like that again they’ll hold you for more questioning. But you can go this time” Whoopsies. Thank goodness he didn’t also see the incredible amount of food I had stashed in my bag. Happy to be off the hook and worried I’d mess up again, I ran right through the wrong door and into the open arms of my family and the beautiful, American“sampling” salad bar. I did miss that country.
            So, after a few days of filling up on diet sodas, candy corn, jelly beans, fro yo, homemade food, and family love (I really really like my family) I left home to go South, to the foreign Republic of Texas. The second I got off the plane I knew Dallas would be confusing, mostly because my ride was confused enough to try to pick me up at the wrong airport. Kind of a fitting start to a strange trip.
            At least after the airport faux pas I started the trip off right, with an emergency stop at Whole Foods, a place I quickly realized would be one of the only comforts in the vast wasteland. I then went to the JCC to meet most of the International Delegation.  We played some games, ate some American delicacies (cheese-its and candy), and went to an indoor ropes course, a wonderful team building experience that they definitely don’t have in Europe. After swinging from ceilings and realizing that “zip, zap, and zop” are not distinguishable sounds in many other languages, we broke for Shabbat. That was when I realized just how strange the city really is.
            First of all, Dallas isn’t so much a city as suburban sprawl cut open by highways. Even if there was something to see, it’s hard to see the area because you spend your whole visit on a highway. At least the city is organized, because what I did see looked like a perfectly alternating pattern: target, walmart, tex-mex, hooters, target, walmart, tex-mex, hooters, brown patch of land… I went running “downtown” on multiple occasions and, even at 10 AM on a Saturday, when people should be out and about, I felt uncomfortable and unsafe because the streets and sidewalks were completely bare, save for a heck of a lot of homeless people. The worst part came when I needed my fill of fro yo and my boyfriend and I failed so miserably for an hour and a half that we almost gave up. Thank goodness I found a determined fellow because when we gave up on walking and hopped on the highway we also found the highlight of my week: EATZI’S! 


Eatzi’s is the most glorious of gourmet market/cafes. Long before Whole Foods became the meca that it is, Eatzi’s had the best prepared foods, opera music, salad bar, and, of course samples. It was a staple in Rockville until I turned about 10, when it closed so suddenly that the workers did not even know they were out of a job until 24 hours before the place closed. My family and friends are still so much in mourning that we say “too soon” whenever the name is mentioned and get nostalgic when we drive by the empty spot. Apparently it does still exist and it almost made up for everything else. That is, until I tried to try famous Dallas tex-mex.
            I spent a long time researching the most highly rated tex-mex joint because if I was going to do it, I was going to do it right. First of all, tex-mex in Dallas means velveeta. Oy. The fact that that is a delicacy almost makes me too nauseous to stomach anything. But, knowing the importance of keeping an open mind when you’re travelling, and trying desperately to understand why Dallasians like their city, my boyfriend and I compared menus and reviews and settled on a place called “Komali.” Afterwards, everyone made recommendations for other restaurants but considering that the main descriptions they provided were, “their food isn’t not bad,” or “that’s the best I can think of,” I was not convinced enough to subject myself to the torture twice. At Komali, we tried to order eggs, but there were so many chips mixed in that I think even vegans could eat them. My boyfriend rightly proclaimed that the “quesadillas,” which, in typical Texan fashion, were unnecessarily fried, tasted like a poor version of a microwaveable dinner. And there was so much oil in every single thing that I’m starting to think that’s where the Texas oil tycoons really make their money. We ran out in search of exercise and fresh foods, agreeing that we gave it our best try but we’re sticking with Whole Foods.
            Between that eating experience and most that followed, I was a bit embarrassed that Dallas was the International folk’s exposure to American food. The US gets a bad rep anyway, what with all the obesity, and nothing we ate or saw did much to save that image. The international staff repeatedly said, “No wonder Americans are so fat,” because even the steamed vegetables were smothered in butter. The one food I will stand up for are breakfast potatoes, which confused the living day lights out of some foreignors. The problem might have been that the hotel served the potatoes with pancakes, which should be too many carbs even for Texans. At least I can say Texas always surprised me when it came to their definition of a meal. I tried desperately to explain that it is not only possible but even easy to be healthy in the US, but when that speech was always closely followed by free chips and cookies, I’m pretty sure I remained unpersuasive.

            So, between the ugly landscape and the even uglier food, I’m not quite sure what the international delegates thought of our country but I know most of them at least had fun. After all, everything is fun when you’re in good company. Together we tackled a BBYO dance (which, are traumatizing enough that I claim they are the reason I quit BBYO) the Dallas “aquarium” (since when does an indoor rainforest with a few glass cases of fish constitute an aquarium?), the Lego movie, and the throngs of BBYO teens that took over an entire hotel. To give you a better picture of my time there, the first week was spent mostly with just the teens, staff, and 4 other BBYO/JDC fellows from 17 countries, which included teens from a host of nations, including Argentina, the Balkans, the UK, Turkey, and other places. We were hosted by some extraordinarily kind local families, saw Jewish life, toured around a little bit of Dallas, and mostly just got to know each other.

After some time adapting to the locale, we moved  to a hotel for the actual convention, to live amidst a hodgepodge of American teenagers roaming around in brightly colored spiritwear and leggings. There were a bunch of nice ceremonies, a lot of REALLY long speeches, some prayer, some CPR training as community service, and some concerts by artists that the teens swear are famous even though I’m far too old to know who they are. The best part by far was the opening ceremonies, when each region and country sent representatives on stage to show their spirit. I watched my teens proudly trot to the front of a screaming crowd of thousands. My teens and most of the international kids are from communities that are so small that they never even imagined so many Jewish teenagers gathering together. And here they were, not only in one room, but cheering for them. That moment made it all worth it.

Sunday, February 9, 2014

My cure for the wintertime blues

So, I know that I rave about Riga so much that someone reading my blog might think it’s filled with rainbows and bunnies riding unicorns, and, while there actually are a lot of bunnies, 

there is a dark side. It’s literally dark.   Lately it’s also been the kind of cold where I don’t necessarily notice just how bad it is until I realize I haven’t felt my toes in a while and I suddenly can’t do a 20 minute walk without stopping in a few stores to “look around” while my toes regain consciousness, but that’s a whole different story. Oh, and if anyone was wondering what happens when you run in -12 degrees Celsius, 7 degrees Fahrenheit, your fleece neck warmer actually makes you colder because so much frost forms from your breath and any hair that pokes out of your hat or eyelids (aka eyelashes) will turn frosty and white and make you look like a frozen Albert Einstein. But again, that’s a tale for another time. So, before the polar vortex skated over to devour Riga, it was mostly just so dark that the lack of Vitamin D in my veins made me inexplicably sad. I would randomly start crying even if I was talking about how much I liked it here. Nothing made sense. So, I decided that, as everyone else in my office ran away to the warmth and sun of Israel, I should go to another dark place that I at least heard looked like a fairytale: Tallinn. 
            I hopped on another New York length bus ride, this time with an individual TV and free coffee (this bus was far fancier and more accommodating than my 10 hour flight to Riga. NEVER TAKE AEROFLOT) and I arrived just in time to see darkness in Tallinn. At least there were a lot of Christmas lights. Especially in the Christmas market. Tallinn really plays up their fairytale reputation because, in addition to the already enchanted looking buildings they also have people in old timey costumes everywhere. It felt a little touristy to me, but the other tourists were eating it up so I just moseyed on through, admired the random witches costumes, and got a nice tour of the town from the Estonian fellow, Jonah.
The next day began the way all my great days in Latvia do, with a trip to the local kindergarten. Their kindergarten is much bigger but I still felt completely at home. Jonah goes three days a week to lead Shabbat, Havdallah and Israeli dancing. In exchange, he gets a Russian babushka because the school chef force feeds him chocolate, homemade crepes, and other treats as she tells him he’s too skinny and needs to eat more so he can get a girlfriend. Finally the Russian babushka experience I was searching for! And it turned out it was only the first of many in this wonderful town.

  So, after watching the little kiddies show off their Israeli dance skills and sing Havdallah tunes on a Tuesday morning (technically you have until Tuesday night. And, as my family likes to say, it’s never too late), Jonah and I seized the few hours of daylight (or day grey) by taking a short walk around town so I could see the color of the colorful buildings. Tallinn is certainly quainter than Riga and much more cutesy. It looks more like a Christmas collection of gingerbread houses than actual buildings, which provided just the kind of warm, merry feeling I needed to fight the cold and darkness. So I reveled in the little Disneyland dollhouse that is Tallinn and then Jonah and I made our way over to the Jewish Community.


  In Riga, the synagogue and community center demonstrate their ideological separation with physical separation. In Tallinn, however, they at least share a courtyard.  The synagogue is extremely modern, with gorgeous glass patterned windows that offer a glimpse into the sanctuary. Also, the Rabbi is really really nice and offered a glimpse into the local Jewish community.




            After chatting it up with the Rabbi and wandering around the building, we wandered over to the community center where we actually got in trouble for wandering. Jonah tried to give me a tour of the museum based on the tour someone else had given him when, all of a sudden, some old guy Jonah had never seen before started yelling at us that that is now how they do things in the museum and Jonah does not know what he is talking about. First of all, Jonah definitely knows what he is talking about. Second, that guy shouldn’t tell us the tour is inappropriate and inadequate unless he wants to give us a tour himself. When it became clear we were not welcome we ran into the welcoming arms of the welfare center. I knew we made the right choice when we were immediately greeted by a babuskha knitting group. Since I hadn’t brought my gear with me, I talked to one of the heads of the welfare center instead and learned that, exactly like the center in Riga, the center gives elderly Russians places to go, things to do, and people to see. The head of the welfare center also offered my second positive babushka experience of the day when she finished our tour with pictures of her lovely children, coffee, and tasty cake. Real babushkas know how to make everything better. With my belly warm and full I finished my already lovely trip with a visit to the teen center. I watched the madrichim’s planning meeting, which was really just a group of teens eating burgers and cookies while they doodled and goofed off in Russian. The more similarities I saw between Tallinn and Latvian Jewish life, the more excited I felt to get on the bus and go back to my community in Riga.