I think we're all about too find out what I look like with
blonde hair and blue eyes. After all, I don't want to stick out too much when I
move to Scandinavia. Have I mentioned how much I like that part of the world?
As if my love wasn't already abundantly clear, here comes another blog post
dedicated to the happiest part of the world (but actually, it has been proven
to be the happiest city).
Copenhagen
has been at the top of my travel list for a few years now, ever since my
brilliant incredible and beautiful friend Ali told me about her semester
abroad. Finally, after hearing about its wonder and Ali's biggest complaint
that everyone was too pretty and normal, it was finally time to join the fun.
I'm a little biased about how great the city is because I
have a weakness for bright lights, shiny holiday joy, and free samples that
made me fall head over heels almost immediately. The minute I entered the
walking streets of stroget I felt like I was in whoville. Christmas is a way of
life there, so much so that I think they produce gingerbread cookies instead of
bodily fluids. That's the only explanation I can think of for why there were
buckets of gingerbread cookies at every store, stand, and street corner just
calling my name. And I answered.
Or maybe some rides and games that take you around the world in 80 minutes?
If none of that interests you, how about some concerts or a stroll through another Christmas market filled with Gnoam’s brethren and holiday goodies?
Even the Russians can be happy here:
Seriously, you want it, they got it and it will make you smile.
After all that holiday and family joy I decided it was time for the Hannah version of Christmas so I celebrated Shabbat at the Copenhagen Chabad. No matter how you feel about chabad, if you can find a fairly active, just do it. I've had some less than positive experiences, fine, but the good times FAR outweigh the bad. The good times (which, Copenhagen and Venice currently top my list) are the perfect place for lonely travelers looking for some Jewish traditions, family fun, and a free home-cooked meal. Between meeting three Australian brothers who became my travel buddies, getting to celebrate Shabbat dinner and lunch at a table crowded with warm people and warm food, and letting my Jewish mother/babushka loose by helping in the kitchen, this place was just what I needed. Maybe instead of a food blog I'll have a blog dedicated to different Shabbat dinners... Anyone want to take me in? I do dishes!
And while we're talking about food (because I'm always
talking about food), I may not have gotten to eat the 26 course meal at the
number 1 restaurant in the world 3 years running (it's a lowly number 2 now
anyway) but Michelin stars or not, my belly was like santa on Christmas eve;
very busy and very jolly. As the wise Ali advised, "There will be bakeries
on almost every corner and every time you walk by one, you must go in and get a
croissant or something." I can't say I did exactly that (I needed to fit
on the plane to get home) but I sure did try.
The best bakery item I ate was
actually in the airport when I was trying to use up my kronor and I spotted
chocolate black bread. Black bread is something I was first introduced to in
Latvia and recently learned is important in other cuisines, such as Danish. I
think the best way to explain the bread is to clarify that in Russian there are
2 words for bread: black bread and bread. So basically, it is its own breed.
Black bread is extraordinarily dark, sharp, and sometimes dry. It took some
getting used to until I realized how well it soaks up other flavors. And how
good it is when it’s chocolatey and soft. The Danes are so good with food they
not only make black bread delicious but they even have good pastries in their
airport. What is this place? Black bread is also an important part of their
lunch delicacy, smorreboard. Basically, they’re known for their open-faced
sandwiches of black bread with butter and meat, fish, or other similar
toppings. I decided if I was trying it, I was eating all I could eat in the
form of an all you can eat pickled herring smorreboard buffet at Nyhavns
Færgekro.
It's a little extreme, I know, especially for someone who usually
hates fish, but this was a whole new world under the sea. I am so sorry I
cannot tell you what on earth the different types of pickled herring were but I
can tell you I liked them all. Actually, all. My favorites were the two purple
ones. They were a little sweet to counterbalance the saltiness of the fish and
one had lovely oranges and onions so I at least got in some vegetables and
fruits. After catching up up on a lifetime of not eating fish in one sitting I
may not need or want to eat fish for a while, but it was all sorts of worth
it.
Another noteworthy meal came from the porridge restaurant
that I woke up early to visit before rushing off to the airport. The restaurant
is called Grot and specializes in seasonal porridges, risottos, and similar
mushy gushy delights. I opted for the three grain porridge cooked in beetroot
juice and water with apples, raisins, and seeds. It was as beautiful as it was
delicious.
Obviously though, the highlight of my eating and travelling
experience was the market. I recently realized that when I travel I find either
a food or exercise thing I love about the city and then repeat that every day.
Copenhagen had both, in the form of the glass market and bicycling madness.
Clearly it's the dream. When I first saw the shiny twinkle of the
Christmas lights emanating through the huge glass walls of the market, i thought
I had read the map wrong and was actually at a museum. Luckily I realized all
the beauty of the outside was just beckoning me to come explore the beauty on
the inside and I quickly discovered my Disney fairy tale. The market exhibits
gourmet restaurants, chocolate makers, pastry chefs, seafood experts, and
produce salesmen who not only offer some of the best food I've ever had but
also the best and most samples. They have quantity AND quality. I tasted fish
with plums that rivaled my meal at Le Bernadine. I tried (and spit out) the
salted black liquorice thats a specialty that I'm not sure anyone enjoys. I
even found apples filled with joy.
I wandered around this place until I thought
they might kick me out. All other markets are ruined for me. And it was totally
worth it.
To compliment the incredible food (and make space for more)
I joined the cycling lifestyle, which quickly became my other favorite part of
the city. 70% of homes in Copenhagen don’t have cars because why drive
when you can bike? I thought it would be too cold and rainy for cycling season
but boy am I glad those Danes do what makes them happy no matter what.
Something about feeling like I was in a fifties movie while covering more
of the city agreed with me. I would take rush hour on a bike over rush
hour in a car any day. And I plan on it. I left the city inspired and excited
about everything. I now know how I want to decorate my house thanks to Scandinavia's keen sense of home decor and this nifty hot tub boat:
I know that all stores should have a boyfriend waiting room with water:
And I know what city I plan to spend a lot more exploring. Das vidanya and see you real soon you real soon you magical fairy tale wonderland they call Copenhagen.
