Monday, September 30, 2013

Apparently I like Riga SO much I'm locking myself in...

          I had mentally crafted all the wonderful ways I was going to start this blog post to describe my past week in Riga, but then something happened that trumped it all: I accidentally got locked in my apartment. So that’s where I am right now. Stuck in my apartment, waiting for wonderfully helpful men from the community to return with tools to get me out of here. It all started when I tried to use some work out contraption that you have to close in a doorframe. This contraption has already fallen out once, leaving me with a nicely bruised butt. I responded by finding a new door frame, and, apparently, a new problem. The doorframe was too good and the contraption is stuck. Welcome to my 3rd week in Riga.
            Despite this minor setback, things are going nicely. Last week I sat in on a lot more meetings with a lot more things I couldn’t understand. Thank goodness I finally started my Russian lessons, with the most wonderful Russian teacher you could imagine. The language is incredibly hard, but my horrible accent provides non-stop entertainment for the community. Glad I can help. Of course, now when I go to use my new vocabulary in places other than the community, I remember that I am in fact in Latvia, a country that has its own language. Ah, so many things to learn!


            Apparently this year is going to be a learning experience for everyone because my biggest project is starting a youth movement. This development presents a change for everyone. The madrichim (older teenagers who have graduated madrichim school/a special program in the community) used to plan events for all age groups, but now the teens will take over their own events. They kicked off the movement and year with a wonderful Simchat Torah party, complete with games, dancing, karaoke, and grilled cheese.  The teens taught me new dances and I taught the teens to put chips ON their grilled cheese instead of next to it. There were about 30 teens total, and it seemed like a rather successful start to the year. Most importantly, the teens learn how hard it is to plan a successful program, which will surely help them in the planning to come.
            The day after their first party, the teens started right up again with another planning meeting. This time I was fortunate to host them at my apartment. Since I live right next to the community center and have a nicely sized place, I hope to host a lot more events. For this first one, I couldn’t contribute much in the way of ideas due to my lack of Russian, so instead I contributed their first experience with rice krispie treats and edible cookie dough balls. Everyone looked epically confused when I told them the things in front of them were edible, but since all the food was gone by the time they left, I assume these foreign foods went over well. I cannot keep measuring in grams though, so if anyone wants to send over some actual measuring cups, I will love you forever.


            I also spent some time getting to know the other age groups. I joined the primary school kids as they created a train around the community center, stopping along the way to participate in entertaining games their wonderful madrichim planned. The idea was that the train tracks created a circle, and they completed a full cycle, just like we just finished a cycle of the Torah. 


The preschoolers also learned about Simchat Torah, but, I’m sorry to say, that even though the madrichim worked hard on the preparations, only 2 kids showed. Finally, I met the university students, which was a completely new kind of program planning. Instead of arts and crafts, I described the realities of a college party, which they should be using in the next few weeks for their opening party.
            As last week was Simchat Torah, I had my first synagogue experience. Let me tell you, I’ve never seen anything like it. It was exactly like the opening market scene in Fiddler on the roof: the space is filled with an unbelievable hustle and bustle because it’s unclear whether the men are arguing or conversing, and, all the while, some people are singing and dancing. And this is just the men’s section. Some men danced and sang with the Torah while others broke out their spread of food and began to eat. And I thought the women’s section in my synagogue talked a lot. While the men do whatever it was they were doing, the women watch from the balcony. Then, everyone congregates downstairs to eat a nearly endless amount of meat and smoked fish and drink absurd amounts of alcohol. In addition to the food and alcohol provided by the Chabad Rabbi’s family, there are pockets of people with their own meals and conversations. To be honest, I haven’t a clue what happened, but apparently we finished the Torah!?
            The other noteworthy events were my first few introductions to some wonderful Latvians. Everyone I met seemed to be an artist. Granted, one of the events I attended was a gallery opening, but still. Everyone was welcoming and nice and enjoyed dancing to old school American music as much as I did. Plus there was free cheese and cake.
            Oh, and during one of my runs I not only saw a rainbow but I also saw a repurposed double-decker bus. All my favorite cities have a repurposed double-decker bus so I may have found a new favorite city.



Monday, September 23, 2013

Здравствуйте” (ZDRAST-vwee-tye). Try saying that three times fast.

            Well, it’s been a week since I moved to a foreign city where I can barely pronounce the word for hi. Luckily, I’m really good at smiling and saying “spasibo” (thank you), so I haven't gotten into too much trouble. Plus, I’ll talk to anyone, whether I know the language or not.
            In my short time in Riga I’ve uncovered a secret that the world must be in cahoots to hide: Riga is beautiful. Maybe the country is too far and small for Americans to suspect it. Or maybe, upon leaving the country you have to sign a waiver agreeing to keep the country’s beauty a secret to deter travelers. After all, anyone from Portland or Asheville will tell you a place ceases to be cool once everyone knows its cool. In that case, sorry Riga, but I’m here to proclaim your wonder.

            First of all, the buildings. And the parks. And the markets. There’s an Art Nouveau street that is just pretty buildings grouped together to make sightseeing easy. And so many parks! I find a new one every time I go running. I often get so excited by the sun, the pretty flowers, and the fountains that I just start sprinting for no reason. If that’s not joy, I don't know what is. 




And I get to do most of my grocery shopping at an open market that has 4 train stations worth of food PLUS an outdoor section. And half a train station is dedicated to pickles! If you know me, you know I like pickles.

            So, just to orient you all a little, I live in the City Center, around the corner from the Jewish Community Center. The JCC is really nice, with a Jewish Museum and a new room for the youth. I’m completely obsessed with my apartment, partly because I get it all to myself. Talk about the dream. Plus, nothing is more than a 10-15 minute walk away from my apartment. My favorite place to go so far (besides the market, of course) is the Old City. It's windy streets of old buildings with shops, cafes, restaurants, and historical buildings. I got a lovely tour from my boss, Martin. My favorite part of the tour was hwne he told me that on the unimportant side of the moat/outside the city, all of the houses used to be made of wood. The reason: if an army came to attack and lit one building on fire, the fire would spread, thereby distracting the army and allowing the Old City to prepare. Nice protection of the peasants in the wooden houses... 
            Now that you have some vague sense of where I am, or at least how pretty it is, you may want to know what I've been doing. If not, you probably should have stopped reading a while ago. To be totally honest, I'm not sure what I've been doing, but I know it's been great. I went to my first hockey game: the Latvian Dinamos vs. the Moscow Dinamos (come on guys. A little creativity with names puhleez). Best first hockey game ever. The Latvians tied it in the last second, no one scored in the first over-time and the Latvians won in the final shoot out. Plus I got a weird looking paper hat. And tried their game snack of choice: deep fried garlic bread. I won't be going back for seconds on that.

           I also got to see the sea. About 20 km outside the city (I love when people think I'm going to know what that means. It's about 15 minutes drive) is a sea town, much like the beach towns in the US. There's a pretty main street, a beach, and the most gorgeous houses I've seen because they're all owned by the rich and Russian celebrities. I'm glad I could see where I will be spending a lot of my time come spring. 

           Work wise, I’m still getting to know the community, so I've mostly been sitting in on meetings that are entirely in Russian. At least everyone's been nice and welcoming. A few seem to think my name is “fellow” and most have no idea why some girl is watching their activities, but at least they're friendly when I can introduce myself. Once I start to know what's going on, the work will come. In the meantime, I'm happy to just enjoy living somewhere new and spectacular.